Lattice Training Podcast

• Do Climbers Really Need to Lift Weights? | Part 1

  Weightlifting in climbing. It’s one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we’re diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world.In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport.We’re talking to:Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams.Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset.Jemma Powell – A Lattice coach, mother of two, and former GB climber. Jemma specialises in coaching pregnant and postpartum athletes, helping them rebuild strength safely and sustainably. She also works with weekend warriors and performance climbers, with a strong focus on injury prevention, movement quality, and mindset.Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development.You’ll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport:Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort. Will Bosi shares why he’s not lifting right now, but might again soon. Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep.In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting, moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season.We’ll cover:Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most)How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performanceWhat female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength trainingPortable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-timeThe compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use themWhy “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbingWhether you’re curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level. 🎧 Stay tuned for Part 2, where we dig deeper into hypertrophy, burnout, identity shifts, and the longThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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• Tom Randall Opens Up: Mindset, Burnout & Real Life

   In this intimate and deeply thoughtful conversation, climbing legends Tom Randall and Ollie Torr dive into the often unspoken realities behind long-term progression in climbing. From failed redpoints and painful finger joints to redefining success in the face of stress and burnout, this episode is a masterclass in psychological resilience and personal growth.Tom opens up about one of his hardest trips to date, the shifting goalposts of elite performance, and how a mindset of "letting it brew" can lead to more rewarding outcomes - even in failure. Ollie brings his coaching lens to the table, unpacking how climbers can adjust training and expectations when life throws curveballs.Whether you’re navigating injuries, balancing life and climbing, or just need a reminder that growth isn’t linear,  this one’s for you.Key topics include:The psychology of projecting routesWhy letting goals “brew” improves performancePain tolerance and aging in climbingBalancing sponsorship with personal strugglesFinding joy in the process, not just the send Tune in to hear how two of climbing’s most influential voices navigate the long road, and why the best projects take time.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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• From Burnout to Breakthrough: Drew Ruana’s Analytical Approach to Climbing

  In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana, one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he’s balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science.From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally.Other topics covered: The role of structured vs. intuitive trainingHow weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performanceThe mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-termWhy goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbingHis long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performanceDrew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success.🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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• Creatine for Climbers: Game-Changer or Overhyped?

  In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts, Andy Cave, Maddy Cope, Tom Herbert, and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad?The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense?Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself:🗣 “Before this podcast, I was taking 5g of creatine every day… now I’m taking none. Here’s why.”Key Takeaways:Power vs. Endurance: How creatine impacts different climbing styles.Recovery & Performance: Does it actually speed up recovery and help you send harder?Creatine & Weight Gain: Busting myths about ‘bulking up’ in climbing.Flash Pump Debate: Real concern or exaggerated worry?Diet & Absorption: Does your diet affect how well creatine works?Join us for a science-backed discussion on whether creatine is a must-have for climbers or just extra weight in your pack.👉 Tune in now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen!Edward Gibson-Smith's Data 👉  https://latticetraining.com/blog/creatine-podcast-supporting-visuals-by-dr-ed-gibson-smith/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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  1:50:27
• Excalibur’s First Repeat: Will Bosi’s Hardest Climb Yet

  In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects.Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines.Key Takeaways:Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance.Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them.Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects.Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock.Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene.👉 Don't miss this in-depth conversation with one of the world's leading climbers. Tune in now to gain valuable insights into the mindset, training, and perseverance behind some of the most challenging ascents in climbing history. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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