American Alpine Club Podcast

Dane Steadman is a rising star in American alpinism, but you wouldn’t know it from his humble, thoughtful attitude. This year, he is being honored with the AAC’s Robert Hicks Bates Award, an accolade that recognizes a young climber who has demonstrated exceptional skill and character in the climbing or mountaineering arts and has outstanding promise for future accomplishment. And Dane really has shown his chops: in 2025, he and his climbing partners Cody Winckler and August Franzen won the Piolet d’Or for their first ascent of Yashkuk Sar. Dane has appeared on The Cutting Edge Podcast twice, once to share about Yashkuk Sar, and another time to elaborate on a first ascent on Huntington—but he has many more tales under his belt, and here at the AAC podcast, we’re lucky enough to get to know him more generally. Today, we dive into Dane’s thoughts on an underrated style of alpinism and how mountain literature has influenced his alpine philosophies. We discuss his recent trip to Peru, and how his repeat of the Fowler/Watts route on Taulliraju in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, with Cody Winkler and Josh Wharton, is an illustration of his recent fascination with the slow and heavy style.

Alison Criscitiello is a little obsessed with drilling ice cores. Whether it's sea ice in polar regions, or cores from high-alpine areas like Mt. Logan, her work allows her to explore the history of climate and map changes in environmental contaminants over time. Alison also just loves moving in the mountains, and is a high-altitude mountaineer who has worked as a climbing ranger in our national parks, and guided expeditions to the Andes, Alaska, and the Himalaya. She led the first all-women’s ascent of Pinnacle Peak (also known as Lingsarmo) in the Indian Himalaya, calling it the “Footsteps of Fanny” Project, after the first ascensionist (and an AAC Founding Member), Fanny Bullock Workman. Criscitiello is an Assistant Professor and the Director of the Canadian Ice Core Lab at University of Alberta, and has received several AAC grants for her mountaineering adventures. This year, Alison is being awarded the AAC’s David Brower Conservation Award for her ice core science. In this episode, Alison shares about how her mountaineering and scientific research converged, how ice core science works and what it reveals, the urgency of drilling these cores now, and the devastation of a “melting event.”

Geoff Powter is this year’s winner of the H. Adams Carter Literary Award, and it’s clear why—mountain literature is the key to his heart. In this episode, we talk with Geoff about his prolific writing career, his search for the distinct Canadian climbing voice, and starting the magazine Polar Circus in order to find a home for it. We cover his earliest discoveries of climbing through mountain stories, and his thirteen years editing the Canadian Alpine Journal, as well as 27 years leading the "Voices of Adventure" interview series at the Banff Mountain Book Festival. Geoff sketches how these formative storytelling experiences have led him to writing several books, including his recent biography of Jim Donini, called "Survival Is Not Assured." We explore the philosophical and psychological heartbeat of climbing stories, and dive into how climbing literature evolved from a tone that was all seriousness and sacredness to embracing profanity and grit. Dive in to hear from one of the most formative voices in mountain literature today.

You can hear more from Geoff, and the other awardees, at the AAC’s Annual Gala. Grab your tickets now at americanalpineclub.org/gala

This year, the AAC’s Accidents Editor Pete Takeda received a 30% increase in climbing related accident reports. In this, our annual Accident Trends episode, we look at the patterns of climbing accidents that happened in 2025, and discuss what these patterns reveal, and what all climbers can learn from them.

From the human factors that influence accidents across disciplines, the emerging prevalence of toprope soloing accidents; the underappreciated danger of getting your knee stuck in an inversion offwidth; or the hidden dangers of a stick clip, to the continued high incidence of lowering accidents, we dive into some of the biggest trends and most poignant examples of accidents to learn from in this year's book, Accidents in North American Climbing 2026.

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If you’re a Partner level member or above, and opted in to receive Accidents, you’ll be getting your copy in the mail in the next month or two! If you aren’t a member yet, now is the time to take action, so you can get your copy, and dive into the details and learnings captured yearly in ANAC.

This episode is all about bolts. From the nitty gritty of yanking a bad bolt out of the rock at your local sport crag, to the big-picture policies that govern the practice of bolting and rebolting on America’s federal public lands.

For the main part of this episode, we talk about the under-appreciated art of bolt replacement with Ryan Kuehn, one of the leads for the Anchor Replacement Program at the Boulder Climbing Community (BCC), an integral local climbing org for the Front Range of Colorado. We also start the episode with insights from the AAC’s Director of Government Affairs, Byron Harvison, who shares an update on the proposed implementation guidance of the EXPLORE ACT and PARC Act—the historic laws that preserved fixed anchors as appropriate in Wilderness Areas. Bryon explains how the proposed implementation policy, just released and open to public comment, will impact how climbers and LCO’s will place and maintain bolts and other fixed anchors on federal public lands moving forward.

Dive in to get the full picture: from federal policy to a day of local rebolting.

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We would like to offer clarification on the statement at 15:29 which states that a MRA will be utilized by the BLM for routes which fail the casual use standard.  To be clear, the MRA is to be used when the BLM proposes to prohibit climbing in an area.  The proposed guidance states that a yet-to-be-determined process will be utilized to evaluate those routes that exceed the draft casual use standard.