Karl and Erum talk with Jesse Adler, founder of Pitri, about why color is not just aesthetic, but chemical, biological, and deeply tied to human and environmental health. Jesse traces their path from biomolecular science and biodesign into building fungal pigments that can replace synthetic and animal-derived colorants, starting with the beauty industry as a high-margin, ingredient-driven entry point.
The conversation explores how consumer expectations and industrial infrastructure were built around petrochemical dyes, why biological materials are often unfairly judged against synthetics, and what it takes to create drop-in, high-performing pigments from living systems. Along the way, Jesse reframes color as a functional feature in nature, shares early experimentation stories, and points to future opportunities like multifunctional pigments and the “holy grail” of opaque white.
Grow Everything brings the bioeconomy to life. Hosts Karl Schmieder and Erum Azeez Khan share stories and interview the leaders and influencers changing the world by growing everything. Biology is the oldest technology. And it can be engineered. What are we growing?
Learn more at www.messaginglab.com/groweverything
Chapters:
(00:00:00) Spring in Brooklyn, the BioD series, and why nature’s colors feel “high definition”
(00:02:55) The Allbirds “AI pivot” and what meme-stock dynamics look like in real time
(00:04:55) A major biotech IPO and the rise of in-licensing drugs from China
(00:10:10) Spain’s investment into Boston biotech and signals of a thawing biotech winter
(00:12:35) Introducing Jesse Adler and Petri: fungi-grown pigments for beauty
(00:15:05) Jesse’s origin story: biomolecular science, creative making, and discovering biodesign
(00:18:05) A “molecular worldview”: how materials constantly interact with our bodies and environments
(00:20:20) The history of synthetic dyes and the hidden costs of “best available” color
(00:23:45) What Petri’s pigments should feel like: drop-in performance plus better provenance
(00:26:10) Early lab experiments, unexpected outcomes, and learning through making
(00:29:15) Color as function in nature: UV protection, stress response, and antimicrobial roles
(00:31:30) Lessons from Pangaia: lab-to-launch gaps, scale, and the mismatch of expectations
(00:37:20) Working with living systems: consistency, fermentation “witchcraft,” and honest partnerships
(00:40:10) Why petrochemical infrastructure matters: machines, print heads, and manufacturing risk
(00:42:35) Where fungal pigments disrupt first: beauty vs textiles vs food
(00:47:45) A future where colorants are multifunctional, not inert
(00:51:10) Quickfire: misunderstood colors, surprising pigment use, and the “holy grail” of opaque white
(00:55:05) Wrap-up: why the color revolution is just beginning
Links and Resources:
Pitri Bio
To Dye For - Alden Wicker
75. Dye Another Day: The New Way to Color Textiles with Colorifix's Orr Yarkoni
176. Dare to Commercialize: Damien Perriman’s eXoZymes Playbook
15. Meet the Willy Wonka of Algae. Elliot Roth
D.C. Climate Week 2026 (April 20th - 26th)
Brooklyn Botanic Garden
Allbirds AI Pivot
Kailera breaks IPO record $625M
SynBioBeta Pass - Discount code: Grow Everything
Topics Covered:
fungi pigments, bio-based colorants, fungal dyes, natural pigments, sustainable color, cosmetic colorants, synthetic dyes alternatives, antioxidant pigments, ingredient storytelling, clean beauty ingredients
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Music by: Nihilore
Production by: Amplafy Media
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