The best rock climbers in the world share their struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Hosted by Ryan Devlin. If you love...
Will Bosi: Sending four V17s, Simple Training for Power and Endurance, 5.15d / 9c+ Goals, the Problem with Downgrading
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In this episode, elite climber Will Bosi explores:
His latest V17 send, Spots of Time
His biggest struggle as a climber
Climbing with a crowd vs by himself
His surprisingly simple training routine
Replica training, and when it works / doesn't work
How he builds endurance
What gas station food he ate before sending his latest V17
Projecting tactics
Speed vs Accuracy when it comes to limit climbs
Which mega Adam Ondra route he plans to project soon
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CHAPTERS:
Struggle: 0:06:36
Training: 0:45:22
Nutrition: 0:59:06
Tactics: 1:05:23
Mental Game: 1:24:30
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.
Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! The absolute best skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow
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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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1:38:51
Dr. Tyler Nelson: Pro Clinic on Building Endurance for Bouldering and Sport Climbing
In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Tyler Nelson covers:
How to build climbing endurance for bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch climbing
Blood Flow Restriction and other off-the-wall interventions to build capacity
Utilizing a force gauge to program route-specific training
How to train endurance when you're not able to get to the gym or crag
Off-season vs On-season programming ideas
Specific training interventions to maximize adaptations, reduce injury risk, and save time
Training protocols for boulderers to recover faster between attempts, and route climbers to recover faster on route
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Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow
Instantly access Tyler's courses on finger training, BFR, and other topics: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.
-
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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45:27
Road to 13a: the Send
Join me and Coach Eric Hörst as we enjoy a send beer and a slice of pie at Miguel's, just moments after I clipped the chains on The Force. I'm so psyched!
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28:31
Hannah Morris: Expanding the Comfort Zone, Managing Anxiety, Fun vs. Gains, and Learnings from a Hit YouTube Channel
Climber and YouTuber Hannah Morris shares her struggles and breakthroughs on and off the wall.
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Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!):
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
-
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Hannah's videos mentioned in this convo:
BIGGEST MISTAKES Coach Louis Sees at Every Grade (V0-V9+)
I Trained Like A Pro Climber for 40 DAYS (Amazing Results!)
We tried to climb EUROPE'S TALLEST DAM with NO experience
How To Break Your Bouldering Plateau
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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow
-
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
-
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
-
The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
-
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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1:29:05
Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Emil Abrahamsson and Dr. Keith Baar
Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including:
Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs)
The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment
Accessing thousands of points of climber data
Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang")
The shocking results of the finger strength study
What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength
Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers
Goals for more studies and exploring other variables
Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!):
patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
-
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
-
Follow along on Instagram and YouTube @thestruggleclimbingshow
Watch Emil's video recap of the finger strength study over on his YT channel.
Will update this section with a link to the scientific paper once it is published.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
-
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
The best rock climbers in the world share their struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Hosted by Ryan Devlin. If you love rock climbing and want to get better at it, chalk up and pull on.